So I bought some mutton at the farmers market. Getting it had been difficult. At one point a butcher informed me that it was illegal in Britain. I bought a rolled shoulder of lamb, which I turned into a wine pot roast (the day after a party that had left a half bottle of Wolf Blass Shiraz..)
Mutton has the amazing ability of being TOUGH. I mean severe tooth and jaw work that makes you look like you are on drugs for a week afterwards. It also has the amazing ability of having a far stronger taste/smell of lanolin (that “sheepy” smell) than lamb -Making the flavour rich, lovely, and capable of combatting stronger flavours than lamb. Now all you have to remember is that tough meats (like oxtail and mutton) turn into not-tough meat when heat is applied for a long enough time. Four hours ought to do it.
These are the very basic things about curries:
In my fridge, there were a few vegetables about to go a Bit Funny. I had a carrot, some small potatoes, a sprig or five of cauliflower, a green pepper. And that was it. I also had a freezer with some chopped spinach, and about 200 grammes of diced mutton shoulder. Not much. I also had a lump of unsalted butter. Lacking ghee, I melted the unsalted butter.
To spice a curry is a bit of an art and can be a bit scary before you know what all the spices DO. I reccomend patak’s pastes for the people not too familiar with indian spices and how much they like. Just add a spoon or two of the paste to the fat at the beginning of cooking and don’t worry any more about it.
Underneath is a guide to ANY saucy curry you may EVER want to eat in your life. I guarantee it. Then I will tell you what I did to my mutton.
BASIC CURRY CONCEPT 1: You first fry the spices or spicepaste. This gets the flavours out properly and make the ghee/butter/oil turn into a spice heaven. I used a generic “Hot Curry Powder”, And then some pepper, a bay leaf, some turmeric, some cumin, and a lot of fenugrek (which is an excellent spice to go with spinach). The hot curry powder I used about two heaped table spoons of. But I am not human when it comes to curries, you may want to not use as much. In with the spices and the oil you want to add onions and meat. The meat will be sealed. Do not hold back on your onions. Two, three, four is about right. India had massive riots over the cost of onions during the foodprice crisis last year. It is a staple almost more than bread is. They also taste nice. Once the onions are seethrough add diced vegetables of your liking. Root-vegetables are good. Potato, turnip, carrots. Peppers and spinach is too. Curries are MADE for that wrinkly potato at the bottom of the bag, or the leftover cauliflower.
BASIC CURRY CONCEPT 2: Balance bitter with something sour, and balance hot with something sweet. -What you should have at this point is fried vegetables and meat all covered in hot fat. This may taste the way you like. But if it doesn’t it is either too spicy, too bitter, too dry, or not salty enough.Here are some guidelines for tasting your way to your personal heaven.
To add a salty flavour, use a lamb stock cube in a little water. Or some salt. Or some soy sauce. Both the soy sauce and the stock also carries in it “umami”, the meaty flavour, which makes food taste rounder and more savoury.
To make a sauce, which is traditional in scottish curries (The chicken Tikka Masala was invented in Glasgow), you have three options generally, there is a “creamy”, a “sweet”, and a “sour”.
Creamy: Add to your fried vegetables either a tub of yoghurt/creme fraiche/sour cream or some thick coconutmilk. This makes a creamy sauce wich you may know from kormas and other relatively “mild” sauces
Sweet: Add a tin of chopped tomatoes, or some tomato puree and water. Remember that there is generally too little sugar in tomatoes these days, so add a spoon of brown sugar aswell. The sugar also makes the curry have less initial heat, but makes it still be hot a few spoonfuls in. This is the way to make a “Rogan Josh”-type curry.
Sour: This is the classic way to make a curry MORE hot. In with the spices you not only add some thick goop like coconutmilk or tomato puree, but also add vinegar. The white vinegar you use to clean windows with. That vinegar. This is the classic “vindaloo”. Another option is lemonjuice, as in the “Madras”.
BASIC CURRY CONCEPT 3: Time is your friend. Depending on what meat you are using, time is what you need. Whether you are marinating chicken in a yoghurt dressing overnight, or are simmering mutton lightly, WAIT. Even fast stuff like chicken benefits from simmering for a long time on low heat. You CAN make chicken curry in ten minutes, and indeed this recipe is lovely, but time always makes things better. Remember that chillies that have been boiled for five hours are far nicer than chillies that have been in for three seconds.
BASIC CURRY CONCEPT 4: Cheat. Your sauce not thick enough? Add a spoon of flour mixed in with water. -This is also good for if you want to use both yoghurt and water/tomato in the sauce: Thicken the watery sauce before you add yoghurt, then it won’t separate.
If things are too hot, add another tin of tomato sauce and sugar, and some peas a minute before serving.
BASIC CURRY CONCEPT 5: Stuff to go with makes it all nicer. Make raita which is really easy, all you need to make it impressive is mint and cucumber. Chop up a few tomatoes in boats to have on the side. When you boil rice, add a cardamom pod and a cinnamonstick and some turmeric to make it yellow. Garlic naan and poppadoms you can easily buy. And if you also have a chutney and some lime pickle, you have enough to impress even real adults. Milk is the only drinks that make curry less spicy, as fat dissolves capsaicin. If you have children and other frail people trying the food, have some around. Otherwise, a good light beer is always nice. Cobra is especially made for curries.
What I did to my mutton:
I added water and boilt. And boilt. And boilt. I stirred, lowered the heat, and boilt more. Mutton takes TIME. Then I went and got a few tins of chopped tomates and some set yoghurt. I added the tomates, thickened the goop with flour, added half the pot of yoghurt and stirred. And then I realised it was too bitter, so I added two spoons on brown sugar. Realised it was too sweet, so I added another stock cube and some soy sauce. Stirred again. And boilt some rice. Boiling rice is an art that took me YEARS to learn properly. Most asian families I know have a rice cooker.
Then I wired some speakers with xanthspod, moved a desk, took the rice off the cooker to steam for 15 minutes, and served.
The pot of curry turned out to be about three days worth of food. This does not matter. Remember that thing about spice and time? Curries are always best the second day. Tomorrow I will freeze the rest.